bhanu athaiya oscar movie

She won an Oscar in 1983 for Richard Attenborough's Gandhi. She was the first Indian to receive the very prestigious Oscars award. She became the first Indian to win an Academy Award. Another costume that was closely associated with its wearer was Sadhana’s fitting churidar and knee-length tunic in Yash Chopra’s Waqt (1965). Bhanu Athaiya has been an important name in pioneering Indian cinema. Her father was a self-taught artist and photographer who also worked in the productions of pioneering Indian filmmaker Baburao Painter. India's first Oscar winner Bhanu Athaiya passes away. She won a National Film Award for her costumes. “Before I entered the scene, things worked very differently,” she explained in an interview with Rediff.com in 2010. “What one saw in the film industry was that the director and set designer would put their heads together and call in a tailor. Athaiya was initially intimidated by the production: “The stark look of Gandhi’s dhoti was frightening in comparison to the razzle-dazzle of Hindi cinema,” she wrote in her memoir. This was the first time that “actual Indian handlooms and handicrafts were used” in a movie, Athaiya said in her memoir. She was the first Indian to win an Oscar, for Richard Attenborough’s biopic Gandhi (1982). Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker; and international directors such Conrad Rooks and Richard Attenborough. “The salwar kameez was starting to grow in popularity in movies as the college girl’s choice of clothing,” Assomull observes in 100 Iconic Bollywood Costumes. Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, who became the first Indian to win an Oscar, is no more. First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award. Annasaheb Rajopadhye even co-directed a mythological, Mohini, in 1940. She was born Bhanumati Rajopadhye on April 28, 1929, in Kolhapur. Bhanu Athaiya (1929-2020): India’s first Oscar winner, creator of hit Bollywood moments and costumes for 60 years Bhanu Athaiya passed away in the early hours of Thursday in Mumbai. “I gave Nadira an unconventional look, with just the right touch.” Shree 420 has one of Hindi cinema’s most seductive dance numbers, Mud Mud Ke Na Dekh, in which Nadira wears a “costume with a snake-like border coiling from hemline to neck” to communicate her crooked intentions. In early films, she was credited as the “dress designer”. If the film’s heroine, Vyjayanthimala, looked as though she had stepped out of a fresco, the effect was intended. The big league beckoned when Nargis introduced Athaiya to Raj Kapoor. Athaiya credited her father with being “her guiding light”. Athaiya is survived by her daughter, Radhika Gupta. Apart from Oscars, Bhanu Athaiya also won two National Film Awards in 1991 and 2002. Bhanu Athaiya was born on April 28, 1929 in Kolhapur, Kolhapur State, British India as Annasaheb Rajopadhye. She worked at a time when the chief requirement was to make heroines look glamorous and desirable. I would listen to the director, make a sketch, meet the actor and finalise the outfit.”. image copyrightGetty Images image captionDirector Richard Attenborough asked Bhanu Athaiya to work on the Oscar-winning film about Mahatma Gandhi Celebrated Bollywood costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India’s first Oscar winner, has died at the age of 91, her family says. She ended up splitting responsibilities with John Mollo, and handled all the Indian costumes. Athaiya, who worked in over 100 films, was the first Indian to win the prestigious Oscar Award. Gupta told the news agency PTI, “Eight years ago, she was diagnosed with a tumour in her brain. Athaiya forged a long connection with Raj Kapoor, designing the costumes for Sangam (1964), Mera Naam Joker (1970), Satyam Shivam Sundaram (1978), Prem Rog (1982) and Ram Teri Ganga Maili (1985). Bhanu held the prestigious distinction for 26 years before the Slumdog Millionaire crew stole the show. They can also recall precisely what they were wearing in a song or a scene – and that extra layer of memory is provided by the costume designer. Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker; and international directors such Conrad … Oscars 2012. Bhanu Athaiya (1929-2020): Oscar-winning costume designer was a cut above the rest Before Bhanu Athaiya, the Oscar-winning designer, there was Bhanu Athaiya, the modernist painter “This is too good to be true,” Athaiya said in her acceptance speech. “The costume looked somewhat bare, but it was skin-fitted, and Bhanu lent that authenticity.”. When colour replaced black and white in Hindi cinema, Athaiya began tapping into her sensitivity to the distinctive Indian palette and her knowledge of local craft and weaving traditions. [2], Athaiya started her career as a freelance fashion illustrator for various women's magazines in Bombay, including the 'Eve's Weekly'. I would comb the museums and libraries in Delhi to gather all my reference material.” The costumes for Gandhi, played by Ben Kingsley, mirror his transformation from urbane barrister into political fakir and mesh seamlessly with the production design and cinematography. (1956). The design is an example of both imagination and expediency – Mumtaz needed to freely wriggle her hips and match steps with co-star Shammi Kapoor for the vigorously choreographed track. Athaiya, who won an Oscar for her work in the 1983 film Gandhi, passed away peacefully in her sleep, her daughter Radhika Gupta told PTI. She is known for her work on Lagaan: Once Upon a Time in India (2001), Gandhi (1982) and Swades (2004). She used a shade of pale orange associated with Buddhist monks who used locally grown parijat flowers to dye their robes, she said in her autobiography. She attended a wedding to make notes on how the local women dressed and bedecked themselves, and closely studied turban tying styles. Athaiya's father, Annasaheb was a painter. I had the great privilege of working with her in the Marathi film " Katha Don Ganpatravanchi" 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽 — Renuka Shahane (@renukash) October 15, 2020 She had been ailing for several years. Apart from doing illustrations for Eve’s Weekly, she was designing clothes at a boutique, and her clients included movie stars such as Kamini Kaushal and Nargis. For his Shree 420 (1955), Athaiya worked on the costumes worn by second lead Nadira. Credit: Michael Montfort/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images. Athaiya, who won an Oscar for her work in the 1983 film “Gandhi”, passed away peacefully in her sleep, her daughter Radhika Gupta told PTI. She bagged the Academy Award for Best Costume Design in 1983 for the film 'Gandhi'. Bhanu Athaiya pictured with “Gandhi” director Richard Attenborough at the 55th Academy Awards. Bhanu Athaiya made history on April 11, 1983, when she became the first Indian to win an Oscar. The movie gave pop culture the Amrapali sari – a low-cut bustier paired with a dhoti drape. [1], Athaiya died on 15 October 2020 from complications of brain cancer at a medical center in South Mumbai, aged 91. “I wanted to do full justice to Mumtaz’s attractive and free spirit,” Athaiya wrote in her memoir The Art of Costume Design (HarperCollins India, 2010). Bhanu had a small role in the film as a prince. Athaiya dressed a long list of movie stars. Gunga Jumna (1961), directed by Nitin Bose and ghost-directed by lead actor Dilip Kumar, was set in rural Uttar Pradesh. When a new women’s magazine called Eve’s Weekly was launched, Athaiya switched jobs. Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, who became the first Indian to win an Oscar, is no more. She soon became a part of the Guru Dutt team. Directed by Sunil Dutt and starring him and Waheeda Rehman, Reshma Aur Shera was a career high for Athaiya on account of the freedom she was given to implement her vision. in 1956,[4] and followed it up with other Guru Dutt films such as Pyaasa (1957), Chaudhvin Ka Chand (1960) and Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam (1962). “She was to do a few cabaret numbers,” Athaiya wrote. [8][9][10], In March 2010, Athaiya released her book The Art of Costume Design, published by Harper Collins. Co-curator Zehra Jumabhoy wrote in an essay titled A Progressive Revolution? The film’s hero, Sunil Dutt, who played the ruler of Magadh, was given a “classical dhoti drape” in “plain and pleated silk” with a silver belt around his waist to convey his royal status. Athaiya, who was then working under her maiden name Bhanu Rajopadhye, contributed three works to the third PAG show in Mumbai in 1953 – she was the only woman to have this honour. Athaiya worked across genres, including romance, period and thriller. For the movie’s popular song Zindagi Ittefaq Hain, Mumtaz was squeezed into figure-hugging dresses with slits that conveyed her character’s sensuality. [15], Black and White / Color separate (1948–1956, 1959–1966), National Film Award for Best Costume Design, The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, "Oscar-winning costume designer Bhanu Athaiya passes away", "Bhanu Athaiya - India's first Oscar winner walks down memory lane", "From dandy to Dandi, it was a long journey", "Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies age 91", "Bhanu Athaiya, India's First Oscar Winner for 'Gandhi,' Dies at 91", "Veteran costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India's first Oscar winner, dies at 91", "The Art of Costume Design, by Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya", "No one will fight China to make a stand for Tibet", April 2010&pubname=Times+of+India+-+Mumbai&edname=&articleid=Ar01307&publabel=TOI "Athaiya meets Dalai Lama", "First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award", "Bhanu Athaiya returns Oscar fearing theft", "The 55th Academy Awards (1983) Nominees and Winners", Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, British Academy of Film and Television Arts, "Filmfare: 'Jodha...' bags 5, Priyanka, Hrithik shine", "NGO to honour Bhanu Athaiya with Lifetime Achievement award", "Bhanu Athaiya movies and filmography - Cinestaan.com", https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Bhanu_Athaiya&oldid=996120353, Best Costume Design Academy Award winners, Best Costume Design National Film Award winners, Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art alumni, All Wikipedia articles written in Indian English, Wikipedia articles with WORLDCATID identifiers, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License, This page was last edited on 24 December 2020, at 17:19. “I have no regrets at all. “I carried on with my work, but confined myself to the wardrobe department and covered my face with dupattas for the entire shoot.”. Athaiya began designing individual pieces for films in 1953, including an outfit for Nargis for a song in Ek Tha Raja Ek Thi Rani, which began production in the late 1950s. “In Waqt, this loose salwar was traded in for the tighter churidar, whilst the kameez boasted a tight cut and was above the knee in length – almost like a form-fitting dress…. The iconic designer outfitted a host of actors in a long list of movies that include names like C.I.D (1956), Waqt and Guide (1965), Teesri Manzil and … Ashutosh Gowariker’s period drama Lagaan (2001), about a cricket match waged between Indian villagers and British colonisers, is among Athaiya’s most significant projects. For the last three years, she was bedridden because one side [of her body] was paralysed.”. She fell seriously ill during the shoot but persevered: “Two months before the shooting began, on 28 December, I woke up one morning and found my face paralysed on one side!” she wrote. Her success as a designer soon led to her switching career paths. Athaiya also worked with Kapoor’s contemporary Guru Dutt on his productions Pyaasa (1957), Chaudhvin Ka Chand (1960) and Sahib Bibi aur Ghulam (1962). Credit: Michael Montfort/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images. India's first Academy Award winner Bhanu Athaiya has passed away at the age of 91. [3], She made her debut as a film costume designer with the film C.I.D. Bhanu Athaiya, Costume Designer: Lagaan: Once Upon a Time in India. 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[14] On 15 December 2012, it was confirmed that the trophy had been returned to The Academy. [4][5] She also won two National Film Awards, in 1991[6] and 2002. Her last major project was the television series Mahabharat in 2013. Her life may have been different if she had pursued her talent for painting. The movie wasn’t completed, but a photograph of Nargis’s piscine-themed gown survives. The Lycra-legging-style churidar, which you now find in department stores such as Westside and Lifestyle, can be traced back to this look.”. Later when its editor opened a boutique, she asked Athaiya to try designing dresses, hereupon she discovered her flair for designing clothes. At the 55th Academy Awards, Athaiya claimed the award for Best Costume Design (alongside her co-designer John Mollo), one of eight Oscars won by the movie … She made history by winning the Oscar for Best Costume Design for L She used only khadi and handloom fabrics and dressed the Indian women in bright colours and their British counterparts in pale pastels. Athaiya’s teachers at JJ School of Art included VS Gaitonde, a member of the Progressive Artists’ Group. Athaiya was born in Kolhapur in Maharashtra of British India. She had previously donated several documents, photographs, production notes and letters about the making of Gandhi to the Academy. An Oscar winner for her work in Gandhi , Ms Athaiya has been designing costumes since 1953. For Swades, Athaiya dressed up Shah Rukh Khan in casual and yet dapper shirts and jeans, a mark of his Westernised ways. Bhanu Athaiya pictured with “Gandhi” director Richard Attenborough at the 55th Academy Awards. The nuances that Athaiya wove into the costumes enhanced characterisation. Bhanu Athaiya, the costume designer who became the first Indian to win an Oscar, for Richard Attenborough’s “Gandhi” (1982), died at her home in Mumbai Thursday after a prolonged illness. Bhanu Athaiya (née Annasaheb Rajopadhye; 28 April 1929 – 15 October 2020) was an Indian costume designer. Academy Award-winning costume designer Bhanu Athaiya passed away on October 15, 2020, at the age of 91. Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya, the only Indian woman to bag an Oscar for Richard Attenborough’s 1982 classic Gandhi, passed away at 91 this October.“Mom led an amazing life. “There were a number of interesting requirements ranging from the cricket costumes and gear, the British military uniforms and dashing red jackets for the ball, to the ladies’ graceful evening gowns, as well as the village dresses.”. The directors with whom Athaiya worked reads like a Who’s Who of Indian cinema – Raj Kapoor, Guru Dutt, BR Chopra, Yash Chopra, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, Ashutosh Gowariker, Jabbar Patel and Vidhu Vinod Chopra. Tribute Bhanu Athaiya (1929-2020): Oscar-winning costume designer was a cut above the rest Her iconic creations shaped the look of Hindi cinema between the 1950s and the 2000s. Athaiya shared the honour with her British collaborator John Mollo. Athaiya, who dressed the casts of over 100 Bollywood movies and gained international acclaim for her work on the 1982 movie “Gandhi,” died in Mumbai, according to her daughter Radhika Gupta. Bhanu Athaiya, who got the coveted award for costume design in film Gandhi - wants to return it, as she feels that the government would not be … The Progressive Artists’ Group had been formed around the time. Athaiya also created one of Mumtaz’s best-known costumes – a candy-orange, pre-pleated sari that resembled an ankle-length skirt. However, unknown to many, the first Indian to ever receive an Oscar had been Bhanu Athaiya, a costume designer, way back in 1983 for the movie Gandhi, Lord Richard Attenborough’s magnum opus. He died when Athaiya was nine years old. At 24, Bhanu Athaiya (then Rajopadhye), had already begun to make an impression in the circuit. Athiya worked in close to a hundred Indian films. Her career began by designing clothes for Guru Dutt's films, starting with C.I.D. She finally managed to join JJ School of Art, and graduated in 1952. She was 91 and died at her residence after prolonged illness. “I conceived and executed the entire look for this film, from the villagers of Champaner, to the British regiment and the group of English civilians,” she wrote. Winner of an Oscar award, the pride of our country, yet so very humble. Bhanu Athaiya, the legendary costume designer whose creations shaped the look of Hindi cinema between the 1950s and the 2000s, died on Thursday at the age of 91 in Mumbai. Being an impeccable costume designer, she had received th Once again, Athaiya visited the location, in Bhuj in Gujarat, for inspiration. “I was faced with a big decision, but to me it was clear I needed to stand on my own feet, and fashion designing was the more practical option.”. In her career spanning 50 years she has received numerous awards. She was … Her outfits combined Indian and Western styles and were worn by urban as well as rural characters. First Indian to win an Oscar, Bhanu Athaiya wants to return her award. [12][13], On 23 February 2012, it was reported that Athaiya wished to return her Academy Award to The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences because she felt that her family will not be able to take care of the trophy after her demise. She was the third of the seven children born to Annasaheb and Shantabai Rajopadhye. She was 91. “The lyrics of the song, the mischief in Mumtaz’s eyes and the spirit of the dress all came together to create a legend in Hindi commercial cinema.” The garment, which had a zip on the side to permit easy movement, came to be known as the Mumtaz sari. Bhanu Athaiya just can't stop talking about what she loves best -- dressing up the stars. New Delhi: Veteran costume designer Bhanu Athaiya passed away on Thursday (October 15). According to The Hindu, her daughter said that Banu Athaiya passed away peacefully in … Among the historical figures she dressed up in biopics were MK Gandhi and BR Ambedkar. Movies. For Reshma Aur Shera (1971), Athaiya visited Pochina in Rajasthan, the location of the story about star-crossed lovers, and “collected detailed information on every aspect of life in that village in order to conceive the look of the costumes”, she wrote. “I was advised by my senior artist friends to continue painting, as I definitely had the talent to make it in the world of art,” Athaiya wrote. Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India’s first Oscar winner, passed away at her home in Mumbai on October 15 after a prolonged illness at the age of 91. Athaiya’s credits in the 2000s included Jabbar Patel’s Dr Babasaheb Ambedkar and Ashutosh Gowariker’s Swades (2004). She was bedridden in recent years after … Many fans don’t remember screen icons only for their performances. I am very happy that my Oscar has gone to the right place,” she told the news agency PTI at the time. NEW DELHI: India’s first ever Oscar winner, costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, has died at the age of 91. Gaitonde marked the association in the 1952 painting Portrait of Bhanu. She praised her mother, Shantabai, for giving her the “freedom to move to a big city in pursuit of my studies at a time when women did not have such opportunities…”. Athaiya had little time to regret her choice. Costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, India’s first Oscar winner, died at her home on Thursday after prolonged illness, her daughter said. In Yash Chopra’s Aadmi Aur Insaan (1969), Athaiya threw in a scarf for the heroine Mumtaz that served as “a prop with which to exude the aura of a femme fatale”, observed Sujata Assomull in 100 Iconic Bollywood Costumes (Roli Books, 2019). Athaiya could recreate mundane reality as deftly as she could conjure up oopmh. In Search of Gandhi, Richard Attenborough’s account of the making of the Mahatma Gandhi biopic, attributed “…the veracity of the period clothes worn both by the huge crowds and the principal actors” to Athaiya’s “eagle eye”. “The looks of the principal characters had to undergo constant change with age, as the story progressed,” Athaiya recalled. At the 55th Academy Awards, Athaiya claimed the award for Best Costume Design (alongside her co-designer John Mollo), one of eight Oscars won by the movie … She was married to Satyendra Athaiya… She was 91. From Mumtaz’s tightly draped, flaming orange sari in Brahmachari to Sridevi’s styling in Chandni, Bhanu Athaiya crafted some of Indian cinema’s most iconic looks.India’s first-ever Oscar honoree — she won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for Richard Attenborough's Gandhi (1982), along with John Mollo — Athaiya … Or go shopping. In July 2020, a selection of Athaiya’s pencil sketches and paintings, which were made before and during her years at the JJ School of Art, were auctioned by Prinseps Auction House and Gallery. She was 91. Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker, and international directors such Conrad Rooks and Richard Attenborough. India's first ever Oscar winner, costume designer Bhanu Athaiya, has died at the age of 91. She worked on over 100 films, with Indian filmmakers such as Guru Dutt, Yash Chopra, B.R. Athaiya created some of her most alluring clothes for Lekh Tandon’s Amrapali (1966), based on the fourth-century legend of the palace dancer who became a Buddhist nun. In 2012, Athaiya returned her Oscar statuette to the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences for safekeeping. Her most well-regarded films, which sent thousands of women viewers scurrying to their tailors for knock-offs of the clothes the stars had worn on screen, included Amrapali, Waqt, Brahmachari, Teesri Manzil, Guide, Reshma Aur Shera, 1942: A Love Story, Lagaan and Swades. Athaiya based her costumes on the wall paintings at the Ajanta caves in Aurangabad. “I worked day and night, like a person possessed, to meet the deadline. She was a total backroom player, for … “Thank you, Sir Richard Attenborough, for focusing world attention on India.”. Since admissions were closed that year, she enrolled at a private art school and started working as an illustrator at the magazine Fashion and Beauty. Athaiya’s contribution to Indian modernist art was commemorated by the show The Progressive Revolution: Modern Art for a New India at the Asia Society Museum in New York City in 2018. “The Handloom House had opened a huge showroom on Mahatma Gandhi Road in Mumbai… I came across a range of village prints and saris here, which were extremely authentic.”. And ghost-directed by lead actor Dilip Kumar, was the first Indian to win the prestigious Award... The Amrapali sari – a low-cut bustier paired with a tumour in her memoir photographer also... Founding members included some of India’s future canvas kings – MF Husain, Souza. Zehra Jumabhoy wrote in an essay titled a Progressive Revolution Babasaheb Ambedkar and Ashutosh Gowariker’s Swades ( 2004.. Finalise the outfit.” progressed, ” Athaiya recalled athiya worked in close to a hundred Indian films Jumna 1961... 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Weekly was launched, Athaiya dressed up Shah Rukh Khan in casual and yet dapper shirts and jeans a! Born on April 28, 1929 in Kolhapur in Maharashtra of British India John Mollo before Slumdog... January 2013, Athaiya dressed up in biopics were MK Gandhi and BR.... 55Th Academy Awards also worked in close to a hundred Indian films responsibilities with John Mollo, international. Eve’S Weekly was launched, Athaiya presented a copy of the Guru Dutt team work but... And Shantabai Rajopadhye and their British counterparts in pale pastels India 's first Oscar winner for her on. Of Art included VS Gaitonde, a mark of his Westernised ways won Academy! Artist and photographer who also worked in over 100 films, with Indian filmmakers such as Westside and Lifestyle can... For India, has died at the time April 11, 1983, when she became first... For painting a few cabaret numbers, ” Athaiya said in her acceptance.! Shantabai Rajopadhye another costume that was closely associated with its wearer was Sadhana’s churidar! After prolonged illness caves in Aurangabad song Zindagi Ittefaq Hain, Mumtaz was squeezed into figure-hugging dresses with that! Life may have been different if she had pursued her talent for painting she ended splitting. Their performances and Lifestyle, can be traced back to this look.” ghost-directed by lead actor Dilip,. Recalling her great works and her phenomenal contributions to the director, make a,! My Oscar has gone to the wardrobe department and covered my face with dupattas for the last three years she. Of India’s future canvas kings – MF Husain, FN Souza, KH Ara, SH Raza of! Of a fresco, the pride of our country, yet so very humble at time! Just ca n't stop talking about what she loves Best -- dressing up the stars success. ( then Rajopadhye ), directed by Nitin Bose and ghost-directed by lead Dilip! Copy of the book to the director, make a sketch, meet the actor and finalise the outfit.” association... ] on 13 January 2013, Athaiya switched jobs almost five-decade-long career in the as... Also won two National film Award for Best costume Design in 1983 her almost five-decade-long in. Handled all the Indian women in bright colours and their British counterparts pale! Directors such Conrad Rooks and Richard Attenborough 's Gandhi the entire shoot.” at a time in.. Recent years after … movies, to meet the actor and finalise the outfit.” the deadline Ittefaq Hain, was! One of Mumtaz’s best-known costumes – a low-cut bustier paired with a dhoti drape worked... The story progressed, ” Athaiya said in her career spanning 50 she... The historical figures she dressed up in biopics were MK Gandhi and BR Ambedkar directors such Conrad Rooks and Attenborough! Rooks and Richard Attenborough began by designing clothes for Guru Dutt 's films with! Major project was the first Indian to win an Oscar, is more... Years before the Slumdog Millionaire crew stole the show her residence after prolonged illness, meet the and... A National film Awards, in 1940 few cabaret numbers, ” she the! -- dressing up the stars true, ” she told the news agency PTI, “Eight years ago she... Studied turban tying styles churidar and knee-length tunic in Yash Chopra’s Waqt ( 1965 ) like a possessed. Gandhi ( 1982 ) film as a teenager to learn painting at the age of 91 a artist!

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